Collar and the like



Jan. 29, 1946.

J. H. SKINKLE ETAL COLLAR AND' THE LIKE Filed April 20, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 .arrazzvzy Jan. 29, 1946- J. H. SKINKLE ET AL COLLAR AND THE LIKE Filed April ZO, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Jan. 29,1946 1 NlTED STATE COLLAR AND THE LIKE John H. Skinkle, Chelmsford, Mass., and Louis Weinsteln, Yonkers, N. Y., assignors to Phillips- Jones' Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application Aprll 20, 1944, Serial No. 531,858

6 Claims.

flap of the collar. The invention will. be described in reference to a collarpermanently attached to the shirt but it .is, of course, equally adaptable to the separate collar.

One shortcoming of the multi-ply collar, in

' use, has been the rather early development of a raspy condition at the fold and this invention provides simple and effective means for eliminating that defect and thus prolonging the useful life of the collar. v

.It had been thought that the rasping effect was caused simply by the application of starch in the laundry, but we have discovered that the effect is occasioned primarily by warp yarns moving out of place at the fold-line. This movement or migration of the warp threads forms troughs, and the sides of the troughs are exposed to more than their share of the surface friction in wearing and washing and consequently are soon abraded and become raspy.

The present invention, while maintaining flexibility at the fold-line, provides a structure in which the warp yarns are not only of sufficient number, but are so arranged and held in the weave, and with respect to the underlying ply or plies, as to be substantially incapable of migration or appreciable separation when the collar is folded at the fold-line, even after many launderings and folding operations.

An important feature of the present invention is the fact that the face ply weave is the same at the fold-line as in the body of the collar, which means that the outer appearance of the face ply is unchanged at the fold-zone.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 shows a. type of prior art collar;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the collar of Fig. 1 as folded over and attached to a shirt;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged cross-section of the foldzone (before folding), on line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a view of Fig. 3 curved as in the folded collar;

Fig. 5 is a cross-section On line 55 of Fig. 2;

Figs. 6, '7 and 8 are views similar to Figs. 3, 4 and 5, respectively, but illustrating improvements of fold-zone construction according to the present invention; and

Fig. 9 is a view enlarged (as in a photomicrograph) to better show the relationship of the yarns in the fold-zone of Figs. 6 and 7.

The collar of Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 comprises body or outer panel 20, a narrow fold-line, or zone, 2 I, and an insertion band 22 which is sewed to the neckband IQ of the shirt. The portions 20, 2| and'22 are woven in one piece of multi-ply fabric, the body portion 2|] consisting of successive warp-repeats, each of which comprises two face warp threads 25, two back warp threads 26, a binder warp thread 21, with face and back weft or filler threads 23 and 24, respectively. Gut warp threads 28 float between the face and back plies and are held intermediate the binder threads of successive repeats. For the sake of simplicity warp threads and binder threads are hereinafter referred to as warps and binders, while the weft orv filler threads are usually referred to as fillers or fillings.

It will be noted that, in the fold-zone, many of the binder warps 21 are omitted, leaving only one binder for every three or four face warps 25,

,and at the same time the number of back warps 26 is reduced. Furthermore, the gut warps 28 are omitted entirely. With this construction flexibility of the fold-zone was achieved, but de- 5 spite the fact that the face ply was well filled with warp and filling threads, there being many more face warps than back warps within the fold-zone, durability and comfort, as measured by use and wash resistance, was not obtained. In fact, a collar so constructed would not, in many cases, last as long as other parts of the shirt, even though it had far greater tensile strength than the fabric used in making the bal ance of the garment.

Reference to Fig. 4 will illustrate what we have found to be the seat of difficulty at the fold in collars of this type. It will be noted that because of insuflicient binding of the face ply to the back ply, and because of the relatively open construction of the back ply, a number of the face warps 25 have moved radially inwardly with reference to their proper positions on are 30, forming troughs 29. The edges of these troughs provide the rasping effect when stiffened with starch, the troughs being forced open when the collar is folded after ironing.

.The present invention is illustrated in conventional form in Figs. 6, '7, 8 and 9 of the accompanying drawings. As there shown the fold zone 4| includes a face ply and a back ply and binders holding the plies together, with gut warps in the marginal areas only of the fold zone. The face ply consists of face fillings 43 interwoven with face warps while the back ply consists of back fillings 44 interwoven with back warps 46, there being two face warps 45 to each back warp 46. As most clearly shown in Fig. 9, each face filling yarn passes alternately over and I underthe successive face warps and each back. filling yam passes alternately over and under .each of said intermediate fillings and under said alternate fillings. That is to say, because of the alternation, half of the face fillings will be engaged by half, of the binders, the intervening fillings being engaged by the other half of the v binders. This permits making a smoother and tighter weave than if all of the binders engaged the same face filling yarns. This is best illustrated in Fig. 8 of the drawings. Gut warps 49 are inserted along the marginal portionsonly of the fold zone as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, and serve to graduate the flexibility from said margin toward the center of the fold zone when the collar is folded, thereby tending to graduate the effect of bending or folding toward the central portion ofthe zone which, it will be noted, contains no gut warps.

By this construction the face warps are held securely against migration, firstly by reason of the anchoring effect of the binders, and secondly by reason of the relationship of the back warps, the latter being similarly held against migration so that there is no space-into which the face warps may migrate even while flexed.

It will be observed (Fig. 7, left) that the weave of the face ply is unchanged in passing into and through the fold-zone, therefore the,

appearance'of the face ply is the same in the fold-zone as in the body of the collar, a novel and desirable result of this fold-line construction.

Itis-to be understood that the invention is not limited to thespecific embodiment herein illustrated and described, but may be used in other ways without departure from its spirit as defined by the following claims.

What we-claim is: v

1. Multi-ply fabric for collars and the like, including a fold zone portion and body portions on both sides thereof, comprising face ply and rear ply weft threads disposed substantiallyperpendicular to the longitudinal extent of said fold zone, face ply warps woven with said face ply weft threads, rearply warps woven with said rear ply weft threads, and binder warps'woven Y 5 with both said face and rear ply weft t,

said fold zone portion having said face ply warps andsaid binder warps in such relative proportion and arrangement that a binder warp is 0011! tiguous to each of said face ply warps, andthere i0 is a lesser number of rear ply warps than face ply warps throughout the fold zone, but sumcient so that when the fabric is folded at the I fold zone, said rear ply warps. will be closely adjacentto' one another.

2. Multi-plyfabric for collars and the like,

including a fold zone portion and body portions on both sides thereof, comprising face ply and rear ply weft threads disposed substantially per- I pendicular to the longitudinal extent of said a fold zone, face. piyywarpswoven with said face ply weft threads, rear ply warps woven with said rear ply weft threads, and binder warps woven with both said face and rear ply weft threads, and said fold zone portion having a ratio of two face ply warps to each binder warp and having each of said binder warps contiguous to a face ply warp, and said rear ply warps in the fold zone being in the ratio of one to each ofsaid binder warps.

3. Multi-ply fabric for collars and the like according to claim 1, wherein there is in said fold zone portion a ratio of two face ply warps to each binder warp. v

4. Multi-ply fabric for collars and the like 3 according to claim 1, comprising in addition,

gut warps adjacent to the junction linebetween said fold zone portion and at least one of said body portions.

5. Multiply fabric for collars and the like -4 according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of face plywarps to binder warps is the same in the fold zone portion and at least that body portion which forms the outer panel of the collarand the like, so asto provide a uniform appearance for a this outer panel and said fold zone portion. I

6. Multi-pl fabric for collars and the, like according to claim 2, wherein vthearatio of face n ply warps to binder warps-is'the same in the fold zone portion and at least'that body portion which forms the outer panel of the collar and the like, so as to provide a uniform, appearance for this outer panel and said fold [zone portion. JOHN H. SKINKLE.

' LOUIS WEINS'I'EIN. 

